J A P A N E S E
S E L V E D G E
D E N I M
We love genuine old stuff with a history.
So it’s no surprise that we love selvedge denim.
Up until the 1950s, almost all denim was
produced on shuttle looms. This old weaving
technology almost disappeared in the 1970s
when newer, faster, more modern looms
replaced old looms. So when the
Yankees sold, the Japanese bought.
And in true Japanese style, they’ve created a totally new era for this fantastic fabric. Selvedge means a self-binding edge of a fabric woven on a shuttle loom. It’s not the same as raw denim. Selvedge refers to how the fabric has been woven, whereas raw refers to the wash (or lack thereof) on the fabric.
A shuttle loom uses a small device called a shuttle to fill in the weft threads by passing back and forth between both sides of the loom. This leaves one continuous thread at all the edges so the fabric self-seals – without stray threads.
The shuttle looms at Nisshinbo Mills, our producer, create fabric that’s about 28 inches wide. This size is just about perfect for aligning selvedge seams beneath the outside edges of a jeans pattern. This placement isn’t just aesthetically pleasing – it’s practical, saves jeans sewers a few extra passes on the overlock machine, and ensures that the jeans don’t fray along the outseam.
This season’s selvedge denim line contains a Hiroki jacket and Yohji jeans. Both are made in selvedge denim woven by the legendary Nisshinbo Mills, which date back to 1907. Exactly 100 years older than we are!
This season’s selvedge denim line
contains a Hiroki jacket and Yohji jeans.
Both are made in selvedge denim woven
by the legendary Nisshinbo Mills, which
date back to 1907. Exactly 100 years
older than we are!
When the mill was founded more than 110 years ago, the manufacturer focused on combining traditional Japanese textile manufacturing techniques and modern techniques. The goal? To make only the finest products. Today their ring-spun selvedge denim is consistently regarded by denim enthusiasts to be second-to-none when it comes to quality and durability. We thought the best would be good enough. We also love the fact that instead of scaling up, they scaled down production and chose to focus more on product quality – rather than quantity.
Our 5-pocket Yohji jeans are classics: b utton fly, copper rivets, and tobacco seams. Regular fit with a low waist and tapered leg. The Hiroki jacket has double breast pockets, copper buttons, tobacco seams, and a short, boxy fit. The back is divided with a double seam and has a shoulder yoke. Both products come in 14 oz, unwashed selvedge denim. Garments that are true to our statement: The originals of tomorrow that you’ll wear for a long, long time. Wear them in good health!